By Garen Ajderhanyan · · 7 min read
In brief
The Belle Époque façades of Nice can be read like a page: mascarons above the windows, consoles beneath the balconies, string courses between the floors, cornice as crowning element, ironwork as signature. Each ornament has a name and a place, and this place is not random: it establishes the building's hierarchy and identifies its principal floor. This lexicon can be learnt in a few minutes' walk, quartier des Musiciens, boulevard Victor-Hugo, Carabacel, and it permanently changes the way one moves through the city.
What does the ornamentation of a Niçois façade tell us?
I often walk along boulevard Victor-Hugo in the early morning, when the light still grazes the façades. It is the hour when the ornamentation stands out: a face sculpted above a window, a garland of fruit beneath a cornice, the design of a balustrade. Most passers-by no longer see them. They walk at shop-window height, and the essential unfolds above.
For Belle Époque ornamentation is not decoration placed at random. It is a grammar. Each element has a name, a place and a function: to say what the building is, where its principal floor is located, how it terminates against the sky. Learning this vocabulary is learning to read, and Nice, between the Promenade des Anglais and the hills, is an open-air library.
What is a mascaron?
The mascaron is a sculpted face, most often placed on the keystone of a window or door. The word comes from the Italian mascherone, the large mask. The tradition is ancient, these figures were once believed to have the power to ward off evil spirits, but in the Belle Époque, the mascaron becomes an exercise in style: faces of women with flowing hair, fauns, heads crowned with flowers or ears of wheat, allegories of the seasons.
What interests me is their placement. On many Niçois buildings, the most elaborate mascarons do not adorn the ground floor: they accompany the most carefully finished floor of the façade, that of the great ceiling heights. The sculptor knew for whom he was working. Following the faces is already following the building's hierarchy.
What is a caryatid?
The caryatid is a sculpted female figure that plays the role of a support: it bears, in place of a column or pilaster, a balcony, a cornice, the frame of a door. Its male counterpart is the atlas, often represented in effort, shoulders bent beneath the load, the name comes from Atlas, condemned to carry the sky.
In Nice, one encounters them at building entrances and beneath certain corner balconies. When the human figure is absent, the console takes over: a sculpted piece in volute form, often adorned with acanthus leaves, which transmits the weight of the balcony to the wall. A façade is judged greatly by its consoles, it is there that the sculptor's hand is best seen.
How does one read a Belle Époque façade?
I recommend reading from bottom to top. At ground level, the rustication: those horizontal lines incised into the render, which imitate stone coursing and give a visual base to the building. Then the string courses, continuous mouldings that separate the floors like lines on a page. The principal floor announces itself: continuous ironwork balcony, richer surrounds, triangular or arched pediments above the windows. Higher up, the ornamentation becomes quieter, up to the cornice, that projecting crowning element which terminates the façade against the sky.
Then look beyond the threshold, when the door is open or glazed: Niçois entrance halls extend the façade. Floor mosaics, patterned tiling, ironwork banisters, and sometimes a glazed roof that pours southern light onto the stairwell. The Belle Époque building is conceived as a whole, the street, the threshold, the staircase.
Where can one observe these details in Nice?
The quartier des Musiciens first, between avenue Jean-Médecin and boulevard Gambetta: the streets there bear composers' names and the façades display the entire lexicon, mascarons, consoles, wrought balustrades. The boulevard Victor-Hugo aligns its continuous balconies beneath the plane trees. Carabacel and Cimiez, winter visitor districts, offer more ample compositions, and the Promenade des Anglais itself, between two recent buildings, retains façades that merit crossing the road to look at them head on.
My advice comes down to one sentence: walk slowly and change pavements. A cornice cannot be read from beneath. And if you encounter a mascaron that looks at you, return its gaze, it has been there for that purpose for over a century.
Frequently asked questions
- What is the difference between a caryatid and an atlas?
- The caryatid is a sculpted female figure used as a support, the atlas is its male equivalent, often represented bearing the load on his shoulders. Both replace a column, a pilaster or a console beneath a balcony, a cornice or a door frame.
- What purpose does a console beneath a balcony serve?
- The console is the sculpted piece, generally in volute form, which transmits the weight of the balcony to the façade wall. In the Belle Époque, it is as much structural as decorative: acanthus leaves, scrollwork, sometimes small figures. The care given to the consoles says much about that given to the entire building.
- What is a continuous balcony?
- A balcony that runs the full width of the façade, enclosed by an ironwork balustrade. On Niçois buildings of the Belle Époque, it most often indicates the principal floor, that of the most generous ceiling heights.
- What are string courses and rustication?
- The string course is a continuous horizontal moulding that marks the separation of floors. Rustication consists of lines incised into the render of the base or ground floor to imitate stone joints. Both structure the reading of the façade, as punctuation structures a sentence.
- Is the ornamentation of Niçois façades protected?
- Some buildings are protected as historic monuments or located within heritage perimeters, in co-ownership, any intervention on a façade also requires authorisations. Before undertaking works, enquire with the heritage and planning departments of the Ville de Nice.
References
The author
Garen AjderhanyanEditor of La Gazette de la Promenade
Editor of La Gazette de la Promenade. He writes on Riviera property and the art of living, from Nice.

